The following essay is an addition on reflection of a video produced by breweries across Northern Ireland in relation to our unique and restrictive licencing laws. For the original video and further info on how to help, click here
I once read a description of Belfast in a travel magazine. The author, bowled over, concluded that Belfast ‘punches well above its weight in almost every category’. I have to agree, though the same could be extrapolated to much of Northern Ireland. We overcome the odds racked up from regional and colloquial difficulties and when we’re on form, we could argue there’s nowhere you’d rather be. I can’t say I love the phrase, but it’s a fitting blend of self-deprecation and muted pride when we refer to “Our Wee Country”.
Claiming that Belfast (and further afield) punches above its weight, is not mere flattery. For a population of 600,000 and such a divisive history, Belfast boasts a remarkable reputation for hospitality, employment and culture. In many ways, it still has the feel of a “wee town” community, which enjoys many of the advantages associated with being a city. Among its many facets, Belfast (and Northern Ireland more widely) is known for its hospitable pub atmosphere- both locally and for tourists. It’s a category where, when we step into the international ring, we truly do “punch above our weight”. All this, while punching with one hand behind our back.
‘The most restrictive market in the world’
Matthew Dick; Boundary Brewing, Belfast
Time and time again, we hear the same thing. That Northern Ireland is among the hardest places in the world to open and operate a brewery. At a glance, Northern Ireland is governed by a law that’s outdated by about 100 years, that massively restricts what breweries are allowed to do. We suffer from a unique structure of oppression that isn’t present in the rest of Ireland or the UK. Some key rules of ridiculousness are:
- No On-Sales– Alcohol can’t be sold for consumption on the premise
- No Off-Sales– Alcohol can’t be bought for take-away
- Not able to sell at market or events
And that’s before we even start on pub closing times! (When they’re allowed to open in the first place, of course), but that’s an argument for another day. Add a hint of Brexit and a dash of global pandemic, and we’re quickly starting to catch a glimpse of how many plates our breweries need to spin. Sticking with the tireless boxing analogies, it feels like that scene in Raging Bull where De Niro runs down the street blindfolded to toughen him up, only in our case we’ve been told to keep the blindfold on when we step in the ring. A plethora of breweries, stakeholders, consumers and economists have spoken of the need for a change. The rhetoric is powerful, but the message is almost too conciliate with the oppression faced. We don’t need a change, in the sense that we are not asking for special or preferential treatment. We are not asking for something new, nor are we demanding that the wheel be reinvented for our benefit. Rather; we are politely bringing attention to the fact that we deserve to be given the same opportunities as the rest of the UK and Ireland, both as suppliers and consumers. It seems all pints are equal, but some pints are more equal than others- eh?
‘Our Wee Beneficiaries’
Some may feel that my language is a little colourful for speaking ‘only’ about local beer. But this can’t be reduced to an issue of mere pride. There are hefty economic considerations at play here. Breweries contribute high taxes and hire a disproportionate amount for their size. Yet still, as outlined on craftbeerni.com:
“Over 99% of all pints poured in NI are brewed by multinational companies based elsewhere. That means nearly every pint pulled in Northern Ireland equates to money leaving the economy and jobs being created somewhere else”.
In a time of economic uncertainty, generating both for and from the local economy, as opposed to outsourcing, seems a no-brainer. Plus, it’s only when the foundations are laid that bigger structures can begin to take shape. Craft beer has proven in the past to be a catalyst for gentrification. My mind casts back to visiting East Vancouver; an area heavily gentrified, much due to the revenue and economic upturn brought in from a community of breweries now known as ‘Yeast Van’ (Vancouver). Similar progress can be attributed to craft beer in areas of Portland and wider Oregon. Is it ambitious to suggest a change in craft beer legislation could have such a profound effect on our economy? Maybe- But it’s not without reason. Anyway, who says we can’t be ambitious?
Beer in Northern Ireland has the potential to be a genuine tourist attraction. Beer and storytelling are both deeply embedded in Northern Irish heritage- consider Heaney Brewing who produce beer from Seamus Heaney’s homestead. What a wonderful and underutilized tourist attraction- and not through lack of trying. We’re a nation full of storytellers who currently have an eager audience, but a podium that’s far too small to satisfy demand.
Erol Bucukoglu of Lacada Brewing in Portrush makes the justified point that the current laws can lead to embarrassment. If a tourist is up the North Coast, has visited the Giant’s Causeway, has been to Bushmills and tried the whiskey, why can’t they try Lacada’s product on location? What’s the sticking point here? Why the disparity between Lacada and Bushmills? I remember taking the tour of Whitewater Brewing Co in Castlewellan. There was an indignation for both parties as I was kindly directed to the nearest off licence to see if they had any Whitewater beer in stock (I didn’t end up getting what I was after, by the way).
If you’re new to this debate, you might well be thinking about now- what is the benefit of this? Honestly, I don’t know what to tell you there. A common argument is that this change in legislation is designed to “steal customers from the pub”. That misses the mark all together. Matthew Dick of Boundary Brewing makes the point that no brewery in Northern Ireland would be in existence if not for our world-famous, much-loved pubs. Imagine what breweries could offer them if they were given a fair shot at selling and promoting their products, which leads to means of greater investment and business development. The offerings given to pubs would be greater, and many pub owners understand and support that. It’s sort of like arguing that because grassroots football is available in Manchester, everyone’s going to start boycotting Old Trafford (emphasis on the sort of).
D-Day
Tuesday the 3rd of November 2020 is a significant day in world politics and local politics alike. Whether the USA decide to elect President Rock or President Hard Place, you might well be left wanting a drink. So do what you can to ensure that you, the consumer, have your choice of beer. Assembly will be held on November 3rd in Northern Ireland to hear the draft bill being read. Contact your local MLA* in support removing these limitations and bringing Northern Ireland up to speed with where it should be.
We are in times of significant turmoil. Day-to-day life is borderline unrecognisable, and a rant about local beer is not intended to ignore that reality, although if you enjoyed the distraction up until now- I’m sorry for bringing you back to the real world. Things are difficult and uncertain. Yet, in times of grave uncertainty, it’s imperative that we focus on the things we can control or influence. A Northern Ireland where creatives can thrive, and our local produce is celebrated rather than whispered about, should be more than a daydream. We deserve the pub, the market, the community, where we’re vocal on local.
Sometimes you need a rude awakening, if you want to drink in peace
Slán Abhaile
*To find out more, as well as who your local MLA is and their email address, click HERE.
And if you’re not inspired by my shite talk, watch the video:
Brewed Awakening 